Our last major re-supply stop was in Campbell River. From there on, we had a few weeks of sunny, warm cruising. The change in climate and environment was dramatic. In our minds this summer has turned into two trips: The isolated wilderness trip with lots of challenging weather, and the warm trip, with sunny weather and lots of other boats around.
Just outside Campbell River there was a mess of sportfishing boats out fishing. So I put on my “Wild” salmon t-shirt and joined the fray. And a fray it was – a while later we pulled in this nice Coho, which we almost lost to a sea lion. There was a lot of excitement and yelling when I spotted the sea lion in the water and when Jan finally netted the fish, the sea lion stuck its head up and glared at her. If you look closely you can see the sea lion’s teeth scrape marks on the side of the salmon.
The Coho made a very tasty dinner.
Jan cured the rest of the salmon with salt, sugar, and zest of orange, lemon and lime.
Boat traffic increased as we headed over toward Desolation Sound.
Prideaux Haven, one of the most popular anchorages in Desolation Sound. You can’t see them all in one picture, but we counted 88 boats in this cove. The days of having a cove to ourselves are over!
The numbers of boats here was just amazing. We anchored off to the side and just watched the goings-on. We hadn’t had this much distraction in a long time.
One of the attractions of Desolation Sound is the warmer water, and we thoroughly enjoyed our first swim of the trip!
Anchored among the rocks (and away from the other boats) in Walsh Cove.
Walsh Cove has several interesting pictographs, in styles we hadn’t seen before.
Jan foraging for huckleberries on the trail to Newton Lake on Quadra Island.
We had a refreshing swim in Newton Lake. The water was surprisingly cool but a fresh water swim was a treat.
High tide at the Octopus Islands.
Now the weather was getting warm, and we had to put up the front window sunshade for the first time.
The community dock at Owen Bay. We went ashore to walk a short trail to see the tidal rapids at Hole-in-the-wall.
Turbulence in the water from Hole-in-the-wall rapids, across from the Octopus Islands. There are several tidal rapids just north of Desolation Sound. The rapids can be dangerous to boats and are safest to navigate at the change of the tide when the current is slack.
An art installation on the shore. Actually, it’s the roots of a tree stump.
Cured salmon on pumpernickel for lunch.
Another batch of cookies to go with our morning coffee and tea.
Evening light in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island.
The ovoid shapes seen in the water on windless days is often touted as being the inspiration for shapes and motifs seen in Native art.
We stop at Savary Island for some beach time.
Savary Island is such a cool spot, people are dropping in from all over!
Cormorants and Sea Lions (below) hang out on rocks in Jervis Inlet.
We stop at Egmont to pick up Jan’s friend Barb for an afternoon visit.
Early morning at the docks in Egmont.
A Heron takes in the morning sun.
We check out the rapids at Skookumchuck.
Whirlpools in the rapids. After a quick look, we hang out away from the rapids until the tide eases.
View from our anchorage in Sechelt. Here we stopped in for groceries, which was all we could do on a Monday, as everything else was closed.
Oh, and laundry, too.
Sechelt Inlet summer evening.
Leaving Sechelt, we saw green patches in the water. Upon closer inspection they turned out to be dense blooms of jellies.
One of the many fish farms on the coast. The government, in its wisdom, has decided to allow the introduction of a foreign species to compensate for their mismanagement of our former natural abundance.
Stand-up corn on the cob. A Sunshine Coast specialty!
Another beach stop – this one on Sangster Island, just south of Lasqueti.
We enjoy a dip at Sangster Island.
Heading down toward Nanaimo on a breezy day, this is the Ballenas Island lighthouse, with Mt. Arrowsmith in the background.
The familiar sight of the ferries in Departure Bay tells us we are not far from home. But we have still have some cruising to do in the Gulf Islands!
Our view of downtown Nanaimo from the anchorage at Newcastle Island.
Moonrise later that evening.
We stretch our legs with a walk around Newcastle Island.
Arbutus bark on Newcastle Island.
The brightly coloured Spill Response boats in Nanaimo Harbour. I’m not sure whether to feel comforted by their presence or concerned that they are necessary.
Barges of wood chips along Gabriola Island await their unloading at the Harmac pulp mill.
We cross paths with the Thetis Island ferry.
Cormorants hanging out by their cliff nests on Penelakut Island.
The pulp mill at Crofton. It’s not pretty, but it’s there, in the Gulf Islands.
View from the Stoney Hill trail overlooking Samsun Narrows.
The Lavender, anchored in Cowichan Bay.
The new look in yachting. The Azul anchored in Ganges Harbour.
The dinghy dock at Ganges. We are here for the Tuesday farmers market.
Lining up for farm fresh produce at the farmers market. Up on the mid-coast, fresh food is hard to find. Even in the grocery stores of places like Sechelt, the fresh produce selection is limited. We are excited to finally have an opportunity for some tasty local food!
Evening paddler at Montague Harbour on Galiano island.
Peculiar Sandstone erosion in the Gulf Islands.
This erosion is not caused by wave action. Instead, it is the result of salt crystallization in microscopic cracks in the rock, which results in creative pitting and small caverns.
We take a selfie while out in the kayaks in the Gulf Islands, on the day before we go home.
Morning sky reflection on our last day.
The end.
We hope you have enjoyed the journey with us!